You may ask yourself what Flin Flon is?
It’s the name of a town in northern Manitoba on the Manitoba/Saskatchewan border about 600km northeast of Winniepeg.
I also haven’t heard of this town before until I saw Borealis a film made by Winnipeg director Sean Garrity. O.K. I know the scenes in the film representing Flin Flon were actually shot in Assiniboine Park in Winnipeg, but nevertheless I got interested in where that town is and how it got its funny name.
So to get from Winnipeg to Flin Flon you have to drive 800 km trough a landscape with lots and lots of lakes. At Grand Rapids you’ll also get a glimpse of huge lake Winnipeg.
So, how did Flin Flon get it’s funny name? J. E. Preston Muddock wrote 1905 the novel “The Sunless City” and in this book Josiah Flintabbatey Flonatin is a character.
Mining prospector Tom Creighton who 1914 discovered together with David Collins a large mineral deposit near the future site of the town found a copy of the book nearby. So the copper mine was called Flin Flon’s mine, and the town that developed around the mine adopted the name.
Funny as Flin is piloting in the book a submarine through a bottomless lake and passing through a hole lined with gold in a strange underground world. „Flinty“ as he is called locally was also honored with a large statue designed by cartoonist Al Capp.
In 1930 Hudson Bays Mining and Smelting (HBMS) start the production in the mine with one of the largest smelters in Canada. At the time of construction, Flin Flon was one of the largest industrial development projects in the Western Hemisphere. In town especially the chimney of the copper smelter can be seen from everywhere.
This copper smelter was also responsible for mayor concerns about contaminating the soil and jeopardized public health. For years it was was Canada’s single largest air polluter of heavy metals (mercury, cadmium, lead, arsenic) and sulfur dioxide until it was closed in 2010 because it was uneconomical to meet new stricter Canadian pollution guidelines (Source: Rosemont Risk Report).
In the film „Flin Flon Flim Flam“ director John Dougherty turns an unflinching focus on Canadian miner Hudbay Minerals and their mining operations in Flin Flon, Rosemont (Tucson, USA) and Guatemala.
Today the ore of the underground copper, zinc, gold and silver mine (777 mine) is processed in Flin Flon in a concentrator plant into copper and zinc concentrate. While the copper concentrate is sold for further processing, the zinc concentrate it is further processed in a zinc plant on site into special high grade zinc (Details see “Flin Flon Processing”).
Oh yes, and its said that in the last decade, Flin Flon was home to Canada’s largest legal grow-op. Known as the “ganja mine” because it grew pot in an underground mine, it supplied Health Canada’s medical-marijuana needs. I suppose that’s where Sean Garrity got the Idea from to let Aurora (Joey King) travel to Flin Flon for Pot….
I got to Gogama by bus from Cochrane. When you get out you‚ll see first a very quiet village. Gogama was mainly in the news due to two nearby train derailments within less than one month in winter 2015. But the main attraction is of course the beautiful lake Minisinakwa.
At Morin’s All Seasons Resort preparations for the season are “under way” and the first few motor-home and cabin owners are installing themselves here on the shore of Lake Minisinakwa.
If you want to go and eat something “Les Vous” is the place, where everybody meets and eats (in fact seems to be the only open place here).
Besides it’s very quiet here. Just in the evenings you will hear the big concert of the frogs in the reed and swamp.
And now and then a freight train passes by with blazing horns.
You wanna buy a General Store? Go ahead I think it’s still for sale!
In the morning I could have slept much longer and not missed the train. I was early the train was late. First not really believing the CN fright workers that “my train” has not even left Caperol, they were of course right and the train two hours late. My concerns that the train will blaze by this unmanned station left me waiting a bit uneasy in the “les Vous”. But some coffee and a great peace of banana cake later the train arrived and they were expecting me on the train (I was the only one getting on here).
So bye bye Gogama, hello Winniepeg
Arriving from North Bay in Timmins to change to the small plane of AirCreebec which brings me to Moosonee. A small airline where everything is a bit more informal and done very relaxed. In beautiful weather a nice flight and spectacular descent to Moosonee Airport, where you see Moose River meandering, the Island Moose Factory and out in James Bay the Ice floating around.
The break up of Moose River was not even a week ago but although nearly no ice left on the river. So no problem with the water taxi ride to the island Moose Factory.
Moose Factory; yeah, that’s where they make them…
You can order them in brown, white or black; sorry dude pink is not in stock…
Serious, Moose Factory got it’s name from the river Moose and the fact that the Hudson’s Bay Company established a fur-trading post originally called Moose Fort. Due to the fact that the officer in charge of the fur trading post was referred to as the „factor“ the island was also known as “Moose Factory”.
The Eco Lodge on Moose Factory has a wonderful dining hall made entirely of a wooden structure with spectacular view to the river and the sunset.
On the next day taxi-boat driver Thomas and his father took me out to Ship sand Island in the Delta Moose River forms flowing out in James Bay. (Moose River Migratory Bird Sanctuary)
You have to find the right way here trough the shallow water avoiding any sandbanks or wood. The ice out in James Bay looks from here like a big wall of Ice. But in fact it’s a mirage and the ice is just a bit above the water. As you come nearer to the ice it gets colder.
So before fuel or motor froze we turned. On the sandy beach of Ship sand Island you can often find fossils. Some of them older than the dinosaurs. So I heard many stories about the life out here from Thomas father.. How he got attacked by a polar bear and also that due to a treaty (treaty 4) from 1874 they still get 5$ a year. In that time this must have been a good treaty, but they forgot to put in a term to consider inflation. So if you take the bus to collect your money you’ll end up with nothing when you paid the fare.
We got back safely without being eaten by a polar bear…
Moosonee can only be reached in summer by rail or air (in winter there is an ice road south to Otter Rapids and north as far as Attawapiskat), So on my way back south I took the Little Bear “Express” train. Besides the few passengers it transported mainly cargo and some cars. At a leisurely pace of 65 km/h we chugged trough wood and along rivers (which you often cant see due to the trees). Passing the Otter Rapids power plant which produces 182 MW out of the Abitibi river you reach after nearly 5 hours Chochrane.
The rather cloudy arrival at “my” beach on the shore of Lake Nipissing (translated “little water”) in North Bay tuned to be a great sunny the next evening. Now I know why the place I stayed is called Sunset Inn.
What can you see on a Monday 9. of May 2016 in North Bay? Yes the beach, the harbour (how fast is now “dead slow” exactly? Seems to mean “as slow as possible without losing steerageway”).
But did you know that on this day there was a transit of mercury across the sun?
I didn’t, but the astronomer of the local astronomy club did. And they were there on the beach with their telescopes waiting for a spot without clouds. Yes, mercury is small and so you just see a very small black dot…. You could see it almost around the whole world (not in Australia, because there is night-time; sorry mates better luck next time..). But transits of Mercury happen only about 13 times a century. The next will be in 2019. So Mercury transits are rare and they’re also some of the best opportunities to see the closest planet to the sun.
Yeah I’ve learned something here in North Bay!
Unexpected was also the movies I found in the video library of the motel (they advertise with “over 100 free movie rentals”). I didn’t expect to find “Volver” by Pedro Almodóvar in original language! And this was not the only surprising movie they had….
So North Bay surprised me and after two days I went on my way up north by plane.
The capital of Canada lies on the south bank of the Ottawa River. There is Samuel Champlain the father of “new France” (he was the founder of Quebec City) standing and gazing over the Ottawa river. 1857 in a symbolic and political gesture Queen Victoria selected the location for the permanent capital of the Province of Canada. Bytown, located approximately midway between Toronto and Quebec City was chosen and became Ottawa.
Parliament Hill with the impressive Centre Block with the Peace Tower on the large lawn surrounding the buildings not only tourists strolling around taking pictures, you seemingly can also find your peace here.
Oh yeah, and there was the „Poutine Festival“! :-)
You might ask: What the xxxx is Poutine?
It’s a Canadian fast-food dish, originating in the province of Quebec, made with french fries and cheese curds topped with a brown gravy. Seems to be the favourite for old and young!
The tale is that the name comes from Fernand Lachance of Le Café Ideal, who is said to have exclaimed, „ça va faire une maudite poutine“ when asked to put curds on some french fries.
And if you say you don’t‘ like poutine or gravy on your fries you’ll be put in prison…..
Yes, the Ottawa youth hostel was once a jail. Now you can book your cell online and determine the release date yourself. And: No “lights out by 10”, you also get a key to go out whenever you like.
That reminds me of the late Michel Galabru as Commissaire Gesberg in “Subway“) eating his sandwich and announce to the “rolleur“: „Police, menottes, prison!„
A perfect place to be thinking of a new career!
Sleep well and sweet dreams!
I found my favourite spot already on the first evening: The Park St. Louis.
What a nice place to sit in the sun, drink a good café au lait and observe the squirrels having their dinner.
Of course there are many other nice and interesting places to see and do; the Mont-Royal (quasi der Üetliberg der Montrealer), the parc la fontaine, the impressive cathedral Notre-Dame Basilica of Montreal in the “old town” or having a stroll along the waterfront on a sunny evening. But I always came back to the Park St. Louis. There you may encounter hippies trying to sell you a tarot séance or also great musician on the street as for example the Montreal-based folk project “Ghostly Hounds”. Or at least half of it with the impressive voice of Francesca Daoust (and her kinda out of tune sounding banjo) and the clear ringing trumpet of Suzanne Stirling.
Just 3 years old and with a great acoustic is the concert hall OSM (Maison symphonique de Montréal). Had a great evening there together with Jochen Jaegerlistening to Murray Perahia in Recital playing Haydn, Mozart, Brahms and Beethovens “Hammerklavier” Sonata. An indeed vibrant and artful pianist!
Thanks, Jochen for the great evening and all the tips what to see and do!
On the jazzy/blues side of the music spectrum is the Upstairs, which is actually not an “upstairs” any more (It used to be). Now you have to go “downstairs” to listen to the jazz and blues of Montreal. This evening Bharath and his Rhythm Four were rocking the house.
On parle français ici!
First thing you realise, when you arrive here: Everybody is speaking French. Or a kinda French: Quebecois
Trying to understanding Quebecois is a bit like Kad Merad in his first day in the north in “Bienvenue chez les Ch’tis”. My communication was sometimes a bit like the one of Philippe Abrams (Kat Merat) with Antoine Bailleul (Dany Boon; just great!) in the Film.
Of course there is the famous Château Frontenac, which is in fact a not a castle but a hotel (a bit more expensive than the Youth Hostel I stayed in) built in 1893 by the Canadian Pacific Railway. If we speak of railway: The “Gare du Palais” has a really nice old main hall.
There are other “hotels” which are not really hotels. In the Hôtel du Parlement only the members of the provincial parliament tend to sleep. And if you’re in the Hôtel Dieu de Québec you hope not to get the big sleep because it’s a hospital (the oldest in America).
The Saint Lawrence River is the connection from the ocean to the great lakes. Therefore also big freighters and container ships travel by.
Some of you might ask themselves why in the pictures the Canadian flag is flown at half-mast? It because the 28. April 2016 was the “National Day of Mourning” which is dedicated to remembering those who have lost their lives on the job or due to a work-related tragedy. On this day the Canadian flag is flown at half-mast from sunrise to sunset on all federal government buildings.
North-east of the city the river Montmorency with it’s cascades is nice to visit on a sunny day. Seems that some people also want to test their chances for a swim in the cold water (the Ice-shelf didn’t collapse…today).
If you get along with the confusing bus routes, in the north of the city you’ll find the Wendake Reserve, which is an enclave within the former city of Loretteville. A place to learn something about the history of the Huron-Wendat community and their actual life and ongoing projects.
A good tip of the youth hostel staff was the “Bar les Angeles”. A nice little place with local jazz musicians on the weekends. This weekend the trio Côté/Boies/Côté were picking the strings (Alain Boies sax, Pierre Côté bass, Michel Côté drums).
Quebec je me souviens…
Halifax
In Halifax there is normally a direct Bus from the airport to the city. But since the Macdonald Bridge connecting Dartmouth with Halifax is being “face-lifted”, in the evenings you get a complimentary detour on the way to Halifax. Bus, Shuttle, Bus…. At least like that you get to know the local transport system “Halifax Transit”, with the different bus numbers, routes and so. And hopefully you reach your destination.
By the way in the north end of Halifax there is a Street called “Merkel Street”.
But it is not named in honour of Angela Merkel’s short two-hour stop in Halifax in August 2012 (where she had a speech and witnessed the signing of a memorandum between the Halifax Marine Research Institute and Germany’s Helmholtz Association for a joint project to investigate ocean risks such as extreme weather conditions and the melting of the Arctic).
No its said that it is named after German troops who came to Canada, after fighting for England in the French and Indian Wars in 1750-1784.
Oh yes there is of course the „Halifax Citadel“ or Fort George (named after King George II of Great Britain). When you sit there in the howling wind you can almost hear the sergeants shouting at the troop in the drill on the courtyard around the blockhouse in the centre.
Might be because of the impressive size or the 72 canons it was never attacked, but strategically important Halifax Harbour.
If it’s sunny everybody is strolling or jogging on the Waterfront. Sure a nice place to sit outside and have a beer in warm spring days. Now it was rather the temperature to sit inside with a cup of tea or a bowl of soup.
Indian Harbour
Driving south-west from Halifax you’ll get to the “most famous Lighthouse” at Peggy’s Cove. Judging from the huge Car and Bus-parking it must be a hell of a traffic jam during high season. Now there were just 3 cars on the parking… hard to choose a parking space…
A little further down the coast lies Indian Harbour. A quiet place with nice views on the ocean and a great restaurant. The Name “rhubarb” has its origin from the rhubarb plants which grew there before the place was built. Now the home-made rhubarb jam comes with the superb “biscuits” served here.
Oh yes and they had music that night. Local Shawn Crockard gave his farwell concert before leaving the province. So the whole neighbourhood from Seabright to Peggy’s Cove had a table reserved to hear him and spend an evening together. So a busy night for Jim and Diane serving all those hungry guest and circling around the tourist always standing in the way…
So thanks again to Jim, Diane and of course Shawn for that wonderful night at the “Rhubarbs Music Bar”.
Between Peggy’s Cove and Indian Harbour is also the Swissair 111 Whalesback Memorial located. A nice place to remember the 229 passengers and crew that died 1998 in this crash. A catastrophe also here still remembered as a very difficult time especially for those involved in the rescue operation.
Yarmouth
Don’t be fooled it takes you quite a while to get down south-west till Yarmouth especially if you take the coastal road that winds along the shore.
There is the great view at the Cape Forchu Lighthouse not to be missed.
Also here its definitively off season. My luck the only open place to eat is Rudders Brew Pub & Seafood Restaurant. I did enjoy best „Rudders Red“ and the fresh seafood. Brian Amirault who was playing the “Saturday Night Music” tonight had some problems to get the attention for his songs because everybody is enjoying the food and drinks.
Driving back up the north coast you’ll come along a lot of churches. In Pointe-de-l’Église it’s said that the Église Sainte-Marie is the tallest wooden church in North America.
Unfortunately there was no time either for Sandy Cove, Westport and Cape d’Or. But thanks to the “heuristic” programming on the GPS I had the pleasure of experiencing the really small roads. Seems this programming seeks to avoid the therm “make a legal U-Term” under any circumstances (I only brought it once to do so). So happily drive down the county roads trying not to hit a farmers dog guarding his masters farm.
Pictou was the place to stay before starting on the Cape Breton Island. While end of 19th Century work in tobacco industry, ore smelting and later in shipbuilding grew. In the last 50 years economic problems grew. The only large industry to be seen from Pitou is the pulp plant of Northernpulp across Pictou harbour.
Also here still off season with a lot of places closed. Found the nice Willow House Inn B&B where the hosts Jamie and Debby do a great job make you feel at home.
Cabot Trail
Great drive on a sunny day on the Cabot Trail!
Would be worth a weeks trip alone with all the nice hiking trails found there.
Due to my already fixed train Trip from Halifax to Quebec City I took the “Short round” on the Jack Pine Trail. So the coyote, bear and moose didn’t have time to attack me…
Hello Canada!
Down-town Toronto in Queens St. W. is my new home.
Time to get used to the cooler weather, see the town, plan the next steps and of course hear some great music at the REX Jazz and Blues Bar.
Starting with the Ross Wooldridge Trio, then the Alex Goodman Quintet from New York.
Blues from Dr. Nick and the Rollercoaster and Brazilian feelings with the music of the Angela Turone Duo (Angela Turone (voc.); Chris Platt (guit.)) which was today supported with the great trumpet from Chase Sanborn.
I had to see how you fit the whole Brian Dickinson Jazz Orchestra on the small stage.
And of course had to hear the great voice of Melissa Lauren and the Melissa Lauren Quartet, today only as Trio but with support of another great Voice, the one of Steven Taetz. Escape Art: „A Tribute to Some of Music’s Influential Refugees“ with great interprtations of all so different songs up to Queen’s „Somebody to love„… Great!
1) Melissa Lauren Quartet at the REX 2) Brian Dickinson Jazz Orchestra
1) Melissa Lauren (voc.), Nathan Hiltz (guit.), Ross MacIntyre (bass)
2) How to fit a 22 Person Big Band on a Small stage……..
How to get around?
What’s best to get around in town?
Which one shall I buy ?
The one on the left? O.K. maybe not the best ride to get around in town..
I chose the TTC. Some people complain about TTC, but it served well for me.
Been there, done that, bought the T-shirt……
Of course I had to go up…. on a nice sunny day. Great!
As to be seen in the picture right there are some signs in case Alain Robert comes by (from the outside up) so he knows he’ll get a fine.
Gooderham Building Victoria University